Wednesday, November 28, 2012

budapest sights Checking Out the Scene at the M aritime National Historical Park: Young kids will lo ve exploring th





Checking Out the Scene at the M aritime National Historical Park: Young kids will lo ve exploring the antique ships of the H yde Street Pier (p. 170), running around on the grass at Victorian Park, and gaping at the crazy swimmers in A quatic P ark who brav e the Bay s chilly waters. All the while, grown- ups can mar vel at the lo vely scener y. Then ev eryone can grab a snack fr om the S an F rancisco C repe Car t in The Cannery (p. 132), and perhaps listen to some music from a local performer. Hanging O ut in G olden G ate P ark: You don t need an agenda to fritter away the hours ar ound San Francisco s most famous park. The antique carousel budapest sights is a big draw , as is the K oret Childr en s Quarter, a world-class playgr ound. The Japanese Tea G arden is so composed and elegant y ou ll want to meditate there, but the kids will pr efer stepping over the stone walkways and scaling the Drum B ridge. B udding botanists will appreciate the dahlia garden outside the Conservatory of Flowers and will especially budapest sights enjo y ogling the carniv orous plants inside. The de Young M useum tower affor ds super city vie ws and the Three G ems str ucture budapest sights in the sculptur e garden is a great place to chill out for a moment. O n S undays, the par k is closed to traffic; near 6th A venue and Fulton S treet, be sur e to look for the skate dancers, budapest sights who put on a fine sho w. See p. 173. Traveling through the jungle and the heavens at the California budapest sights Academy of Sciences: This Golden Gate Park attraction deserves its own heading. Opened in late 2008 in a ne w awar d-winning home, the world s most eco-friendly museum will inspir e the botanist, marine biologist, or astronomer in your child. B reathe in the moist air of the world s rainforests, soak up the scener y atop the living budapest sights roof, fawn over the fishes of the Steinhart budapest sights Aquarium, and experience space trav el in the P lanetarium. See p. 178.

Japantown has held an annual Cherry Blossom Festival since 1967. The festival takes place o ver 2 w eekends and offers many events for families, budapest sights including demonstrations of traditional dance, taiko dr umming, tea cer emonies, and flower arrangement. There s also a parade, copious food, and, of course, beautiful trees in bloom. Call & 415/ 563-2313 or visit www.nccbf.org.

September and O ctober are usually great months in S an F rancisco; the fog disappears and the air is warm. O f course, school schedules may be an issue, but perhaps you can fit in a long w eekend in the city. Fall brings a huge spike in conventions, budapest sights but business budapest sights is normally conducted during the w eek, leaving hotels to offer weekend packages and discounts.

national memorial day parade MODERATE Pazzia ITALIAN This restaurant, a quick walk from the Yerba Buena Center and the Museum of





(p. 265), for example but it s preferable that they hang out with a companion. The streets of San Francisco, like most big cities, ar e filled with driv ers who ar e frustrated and/or talking on their cell- phones, so be car eful crossing them. This is not the city in which to play chicken with cars. Use the crosswalks, wait for the

Editor: Linda Barth Production Editor: Jonathan Scott Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl Photo Editor: Richard national memorial day parade Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition national memorial day parade Services Front cover photo: A boy mimics the span of the G olden Gate Bridge Back cover photo: Alamo Square, with the San Francisco skyline

MODERATE Pazzia ITALIAN This restaurant, a quick walk from the Yerba Buena Center and the Museum of Modern Art, serves simple and satisfying dishes like excellent pizza, delicious pasta, and roasted meats and chicken. The uncomplicated national memorial day parade menu is a delightful California national memorial day parade twist on traditional Italian fare. The staff is warm and friendly to kids, and it s definitely a family-oriented little place. If you re in the area and want a real, sit-down meal, there s no better pick for the price.

MODERATE Pazzia ITALIAN This restaurant, a quick walk from the Yerba Buena Center and the Museum of Modern Art, serves simple and satisfying national memorial day parade dishes like excellent pizza, delicious pasta, and roasted meats and chicken. The uncomplicated menu is a delightful California twist on traditional Italian fare. The staff is warm and friendly to kids, and it s definitely a family-oriented little place. If you re in the area and want a real, sit-down meal, there s no better pick for the price. national memorial day parade

big onion tours HAMBURGERS In a setting r eminiscent of a 50s-era TV sitcom, with vinyl-covered chairs and vintage F





BAKERY You used to hav e to get her e early to claim one of the outdoor tables on a sunny day, but as of this writing the Boulange de Polk is temporarily closed while it expands into the space next door. My guess is the new, larger establishment will still be packed. Indeed, this always-busy French bakery, which proudly big onion tours uses organic flour in its delectable cr eations, is so popular that ev ery neighborhood seems to have a Boulange branch. Whichever location you visit, if it s the morning and you order a cappuccino and an almond croissant, or a chewy baguette with sweet butter and jam, you ll be transported to the Marais in Paris. at least until y our kids yelps yank you back to r eality. Lunch items include smoked salmon quiche and tartines (savory tarts) served with salad. Kids will enjo y the chocolate croissants for breakfast or the ham and cheese baguette for lunch. (The original Boulange was at 2325 Pine St. Now you can find the bakeries at 1000 Cole S t., 1909 U nion St., 2043 F illmore St., and 543 Columbus Ave. in North Beach.) 2300 Polk St. (at Gr een St.). &415/345-1107. www.baybread.com. Lunch items $3.25 $10. MC, V, AE. Daily 7am 7pm. Muni: No. 19-Polk to Green St., no. 41-Union, or no. 45-Union-Stockton bus to Van Ness Ave. and Union St., and then walk 1 block south and 1 block east.

HAMBURGERS big onion tours In a setting r eminiscent of a 50s-era TV sitcom, with vinyl-covered chairs and vintage Formica patterns on the tables, y ou can enjoy a really good burger. They re made with naturally raised, hormone-free Niman Ranch beef and served on a bun that has enough personality to handle a juicy hand-formed patty. The only alternatives to a hamburger or cheeseburger ar e a hot dog, fr ee-range chicken breast sandwich, or v eggie burger, all ser ved with crispy fries. big onion tours Yummy milkshakes and root beer floats are made with San Francisco s Double Rainbow ice cream. Another location is in the Mission neighborhood. 5

tourist map of prague Following the 1989 ear thquake and the 1990s building boom, this forgotten par t of town saw the con





SUGGESTED ITINERARIES THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO IN 3 DAYS 101 101 101 80 Pier 19Pier 19Pier tourist map of prague 17Pier 17Pier 15Pier 15Pier 9Pier 9Pier 7Pier 7Pier 3Pier 3Pier 1Pier 1Pier 30Pier 30Pier 32Pier 32Pier 38Pier 38Pier 40Pier 40PierPier Pier 35Pier 35Pier 31Pier 31 Pier 27Pier 27Pier 23Pier 23Pier 45Pier 45Hyde St.Hyde St. PierPierPier 43 Pier 43 Pier 43Pier 43Pier 41Pier 41Post St.Post St. McAllister St.McAllister St. HayesHayesSt.St. 9th St.9th St. 8th St.8th St. 10th St.10th St. 11th St.11th St. Howard St.Howard tourist map of prague St. BrannanSt.Brannan St. Bryant St.Bryant St. Townsend St.Townsend St. King St.King St. 4th St.4th St. 5th St.5th St. 6th St.6th St. 7th St.7th St. Folsom St.Folsom St. 3rd St.3rd St. 2nd St.2nd St. Harrison St.Harrison St. Mission St.Mission St.Mission St.Mission St. 1st St.1st St. Fremont St.Fremont St. Beale St.Beale St. Main St.Main St. Spear St.Spear St. SteuartSt.Steuart St. Grant Ave.Grant Ave. Kearny St.Kearny St. Battery St.Battery St. Front St.Front St. Sansome St.Sansome St. Montgomery St.Montgomery St. Drumm St.Drumm St. EmbarcaderoEmbarcaderoNorth Point St.North Point St. Bay St.Bay tourist map of prague St. Francisco St.Francisco St. Lombard St.Lombard St. Greenwich St.Greenwich St. Filbert St.Filbert St. Union St.Union St. Jefferson St.Jefferson St. Beach St.Beach St. Chestnut St.Chestnut St. Washington St.Washington St. Sacramento St.Sacramento St. Clay St.Clay St. Van Ness Ave.Van tourist map of prague Ness Ave.Van Ness Ave.Van Ness Ave. BroadwayBroadwayTunnelT u n n e l TunnelT u nn e l Taylor St.Taylor St. Mason St.Mason St. Polk St.Polk St. Larkin St.Larkin St. Hyde St.Hyde St.Hyde St.Hyde St. Leavenworth St.Leavenworth St. Sutter St.Sutter St. California St.California St. Pine St.Pine St. Bush St.Bush St. Powell St.Powell St. Stockton St.Stockton St. Geary St.Geary tourist map of prague St. O Farrell St.O Farrell St. Eddy St.Eddy St. Ellis St.Ellis St. Jones St.Jones St. Turk St.Turk St. 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BridgeFerryFerryBuildingBuilding Pier 19 Pier 17 Pier 15 Pier 9 Pier 7 Pier 3 Pier 1 Pier 30 Pier 32 Pier 38 Pier 40 Pier Pier 35 Pier 33 (Ferries toAlcatraz) Pier 31 Pier 27 Pier 23 Pier 45 Hyde St. Pier Pier 43 Pier 43 Pier 41 Post St. McAllister St. HayesSt. 9th St. 8th St. 10th St. 11th St. Howard St. BrannanSt. Bryant St. Townsend St. King St. 4th St. 4th St. 5th St. 6th St. 7th St. Folsom St. 3rd St. 2nd St. Harrison St. Mission St. Mission St. 1st St. Fremont tourist map of prague St. Beale St. Main St. Spear St. SteuartSt. Grant Ave. Kearny St. Battery St. Front St. Sansome St. Montgomery St. Drumm St. EmbarcaderoNorth Point St. Bay St. Francisco St. Lombard St. Greenwich St. Filbert St. Union St. Jefferson St. Beach St. Chestnut St. Washington St. Sacramento St. Clay St. Van Ness Ave. Van Ness Ave. Broadway Tunnel Tunnel Taylor St. Mason St. Polk St. Larkin St. Hyde St.Hyde St. Leavenworth St. Sutter St. California St. Pine St. Bush St. Powell St. Stockton tourist map of prague St. Geary St. O Farrell St. Eddy St. Ellis St. Jones St. Turk St. Golden Gate Ave. Columbus Ave. Pacific Ave. Jackson St. Davis St. Market St. Market St. Vallejo St. Green St. Embarcadero EmbarcaderonS O M A SOUTH BEACH TENDERLOIN NOB HILL CHINATOWN FINANCIAL DISTRICT TELEGRAPH HILL UNION SQUARE tourist map of prague RUSSIAN HILL NORTH BEACH FISHERMAN S WHARF CIVIC CENTER Union Square Aquatic Park Washington Square Joe DiMaggio Playground South Park Moscone Center Metreon Ferry Building South Beach Marina Transamerica Pyramid Coit Tower Municipal Pier PIER 39 Ghirardelli Square Yerba Buena Gardens AT&T Park Justin Herman Plaza San Francisco Bay Bay Bridge To Alcatraz Island 41010 11113 5 1 2 7 9 8 6 4 10 11 Alcatraz Island F-Market Streetcar and the Embarcadero tourist map of prague Promenade Ferry Building tourist map of prague Taylor s Refresher tourist map of prague AT&T Park SoMa San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) Yerba Buena Gardens and Center for the Arts Civic Center Caf Zuni Frjtz 4 3 5 1 2 10 11 7 8 9 6 California Cable Car Line Powell-Mason and Powell-Hyde Cable Car Lines F-Market Streetcar 1/4 mi 0.25 km 0 0 N 3

SAND WICHES New Yorkers kno w Tom Colicchio for his lauded restaurants Gramercy Tavern tourist map of prague and Craft. You may know the award-winning chef for his role as head judge on the TV show Top Chef. Now it s time to get to know him for his. um, sandwiches. Yes, Colicchio s West Coast debut is based on slices of br ead with stuff inside. The wich in wichcraft is short for sandwich, get it? N o matter. When you bite into his juicy slow-roasted pork sandwich with red cabbage and jalapenos, you ll get it. Vegetarians may like the grilled gruyere and caramelized onions on rye, or even a tasty vegan option with chickpeas and r oasted peppers. For kids, simply turn to the br eakfast menu, which is served all day (and is cheaper). My older daughter ate her entire toasted ham, avocado, and butter sandwich, tourist map of prague and loved it. The younger one had a hard time getting her mouth around an impressive triple-decker peanut butter tourist map of prague and jelly sandwich, but she almost managed to finish it. Although wichcraft is located in the ne w Westfield San Francisco Centre, it s got the best location of any r estaurant there: outside. While the other dining spots ar e in the thr oes of the mall cr owd, wichcraft enjo ys a corner spot with two 20-foot-high glass walls looking out onto the street. Okay, so the view is just of a parking structure, but the light and air y space furnished with many small tables and a few long, communal tables is sleek and welcoming. Word has it Colicchio will expand his offerings and open later into the ev ening. We ll definitely be back for that. 5

Following the 1989 ear thquake and the 1990s building boom, this forgotten par t of town saw the constr uction of ne w condominiums and commer cial space. Although hotels remain scarce, the proximity to downtown, the Ferry Building, and plentiful public transportation make this waterfront neighborhood an ideal place to stay.

national aquarium washington dc MODERATE Pazzia ITALIAN This restaurant, a quick walk from the Yerba Buena Center and the Museum of





61 S U G G E S T E D I T I N E R A R I E S 3 T H E B E S T O F S A N F RA N C I S CO I N 2 D AYS 101 101 101 1 1 1 University of San Francisco Main Campus University of San Francisco Lone Mountain Campus Lake St. Clement national aquarium washington dc St.Geary Blvd.Anza St.Balboa St.Cabrillo St. Lincoln WayLincoln Way Lincoln WayLincoln Way 43rd Ave. 25th Ave. 14th St. Duboce Ave. Stanyan St.Ashbury national aquarium washington dc St. Masonic St. St. Castro Bay St. Chestnut St.Lombard St. Broadway national aquarium washington dc St. California St. California St. Geary Blvd. Turk St.Golden Gate Ave.Octavia Blvd. Fulton St. Oak St. Haight St. Van Ness Ave. 19th19th Ave. 10th Ave.8th Ave. Jackson St. Park Presidio Blvd. Arguello Blvd. Presidio Ave. Lyon St.Fillmore national aquarium washington dc St. Gough St. Sacramento St. Franklin St. Divisadero St. Fulton St. Fulton St. 7th7th AveAve Market St. Union St. Marina Blvd.Fell St. Lincoln Blvd. Lincoln Blvd. Point Lobos Ave. John F. Kennedy Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Dr. Old Mason St. Kezar Dr. Great Highway Spreckels Lake S a n F r a n c i s c o B a y O C E A N Stow China Beach Ocean BeachO c e a n B e a c h COW HOLLOW VISTA HAYES VALLEY JAPANTOWN THE MARINA PACIFIC HEIGHTS B aker Be a ch Buena Park A.J. Rossi Playground national aquarium washington dc Corona Heights Park Duboce Park LINCOLN PANHANDLE GOLDEN GATE REC. AREA MASON G O L D E N G AT E N AT I O N A L R E C R E AT I O N A R E A T H E P R E S I D I O Presidio Park Marina GreenMarina Sutro Heights Park Balboa Natural Area Cr i s sy Field The Legion Exploratorium/ Palace of Fine Arts Golden Bridge Cliff House Clayton St. California St. McAllister St. Hayes St. 19th St Fulton St. 7th Ave P A C I F I C Lake Beach OUTER RICHMOND SEACLIFF LAUREL HEIGHTS PRESIDIO HEIGHTS ANZA INNER RICHMOND HAIGHTASHBURY WESTERN ADDITION Vista PARK GOLDEN GATE NAT L REC. AREA LAND SEND G O L D E N G A T E P A R K NAT L FORT A Golf Course Mountain Lake Park Alamo Square Lafayette Park Moscone Rec. Ctr. Alta Plaza Park Green of Honor de Young Museum California Academy of Sciences Kezar Stadium Mi i Japan Center Gate 9 8 9 5 7 1 2 3 4 6 Chestnut Street/ The Marina District Exploratorium and Palace of Fine Arts Wave Organ Crissy Field de Young Museum de Young Caf California Academy of Sciences Golden Gate Park 4 Ocean Beach 2

2190 Lombard St. (at St einer St.), San F rancisco, CA 94123. national aquarium washington dc &415/921-5800. Fax 415/922-8515. w ww. cowhollowmotorinn.com. 129 units. $96 $145 double; $235 $285 suit e. Kids under 12 sta y free in parent s room. Additional person $10. Rollaways $10; cribs free. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking (1 car per room). In room: A/C, TV (DVD for $15/night), free wireless high-speed Internet access in suites, fridge (on request, $5 extra), coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron (on request).

See p. 73. A sister national aquarium washington dc property, the Serrano Hotel (405 Taylor S t.; & 866/ 289-6561 or 415/885-2500), will walk your dog b y appointment national aquarium washington dc and stocks gourmet pet food, tr eats, and comfy bedding. See p. 76. The Hotel Vitale (8 Mission S t.; & 888/890-8688 or 415/278-3700; p. 92) and the St. Regis (125 3rd St.; & 415/284-4000;

MODERATE Pazzia ITALIAN This restaurant, a quick walk from the Yerba Buena Center and the Museum of Modern Art, serves simple and satisfying dishes like excellent pizza, delicious pasta, and roasted meats and chicken. The uncomplicated menu is a delightful California twist on traditional Italian fare. The staff is warm and friendly to kids, and it s definitely a family-oriented little place. If you re in the area and want a real, sit-down meal, there s no better pick for the price.

veterans day memorial Wi-Fi is available throughout San Francisco, and most of its hotels also offer dataports for laptop





Wi-Fi is available throughout San Francisco, and most of its hotels also offer dataports for laptop modems, and a fe w thousand hotels veterans day memorial in the U.S. and E urope now offer fr ee high-speed I nternet access using an Ethernet network cable. veterans day memorial (You can bring y our o wn cables, but most hotels

This is one of the bett er plac es t o eat in Chinatown, but y ou ve got t o k now ho w to or der. P ass on the Westernized menu and ask what fr esh fish is a vailable. Order it prepared simply with garlic or salt and pepper, and be ready for a delicious feast. See p. 120.

House cars: Upper-end hot els of ten ha ve house cars a vailable t o dr op off guests veterans day memorial in the F inancial Distric t or elsewher e within 2 t o 5 miles of the hot el. Businesspeople use the ser vice most, but an y guest can enjo y this perk. I f you want t o take the k ids to AT&T Park to watch some baseball , or y ou need a ride to a restaurant, request a house car through the concierge desk. There s usually no charge, but you may tip the driv er at your discretion. Restaurants: Every concierge will make dinner r eservations for guests, and I recommend having the concierge phone ahead no matt er where you are dining. If a restaurant is booked, the concierge may have more pull squeezing you in than y ou would on y our own. But don t ask the c oncierge for any old r estaurant r ecommendation. (I ve been t o some unr emarkable, veterans day memorial touristy places that way.) It s more effective to name t wo or three options and ha ve the c oncierge t ell y ou mor e about each one. Other services: You needn t limit requests to restaurant reservations. Concierges can also book Alcatraz or other cruises , car r entals, or ev en spa treatments whatever r equires a phone call. They can buy tickets t o a sporting or ent ertainment venue or amend airline r eservations. Solutions: Did a child get sick? Head right t o the concierge, who will make it a personal mission t o ensure a doctor sees your kid as soon as possible. Concierges will also oblige less ur gent r equests, like r eserving doggy da y care or finding a last-minut e gift. You don t even have to be checked int o the hotel. You can fax and e -mail the c oncierge with y our arrival dat e and particular request. If he or she does go bey ond the call of dut y, gratuities are always appreciated although never expected. Of course ther e s a catch: The whimsical r ooms and bathr ooms are teensy. Because interconnecting rooms are not available, veterans day memorial families have the choice of occupying two separate rooms, squeezing into a double-double, or reserving a suite. Although veterans day memorial kids may love to stay in the R ed Hot Chili Peppers suite, be awar e that most suites ar e actually one- room studios with a king-size bed and a queen-size sleeper sofa. Of course, the diminutive size may be worth it if your child is fortunate enough to share an elevator ride with one of the many bands that often stay at the hotel.

This is an optional veterans day memorial stop primarily for sports fans, but if you choose to visit you ll have less time for the attractions in SoMa. If y ou do go, public transpor tation will prove more efficient than feet, so take the N-Judah streetcar headed to ward AT&T Park. Get off at the 2nd & King S tation. On non-game days, the ballpar k has a playground just for kids. After the kids have had a chance to play , take the no. 15-3rd St. bus to 3rd and Mission streets. See p. 265.

ballooning lessons Juban Yakiniku House JAPANESE Although the grill-your-own concept may not have the dramatic appeal o





The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program allowing citizens ballooning lessons of the following countries (at press time) to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, A ustralia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, G ermany, ballooning lessons I celand, I reland, I taly, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the N etherlands, N ew Z ealand, N orway, Portugal, S an M arino, S ingapore, S lovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. Citizens of these nations need only a v alid passpor t and a r oundtrip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. If they first enter the United States, they may also visit M exico, Canada, B ermuda, and/or

The general cav eats about not walking alone at night, staying in well-lighted areas, and carrying a minimum of cash and jewels on your person are as true in San Francisco as in ev ery major city. Although S an Francisco isn t crime-ridden, it is not a 24-hour town like New York, for example, and y ou could be putting y ourself at risk v enturing out at 2am. H owever, since this is a family travel book, let s assume y our r eal worries have to do with keeping y our children safe while on vacation.

Juban Yakiniku House JAPANESE Although the grill-your-own concept may not have the dramatic appeal of a Benihana ballooning lessons s, where the chef comes to your table and saut s while you watch, it s really more fun to take responsibility for your own dinner. At Juban, a gas grill embedded in the center of y our table quickly ballooning lessons cooks thin slices of tender beef , chicken, short ribs, shrimp , and other items while y ou and y ours handle the cooking implements. The wait staff makes sur e the temperatur e is just so, but in any ev ent, it s pretty difficult to ruin your dinner. Smoke is relieved by special downdraft grills. Juban is big and modern, with wide tables to hold the v arious plates of raw and cooked food, and an accommodating staff. Yakiniku, or grilling, works well for children, who can pick and choose what they like and in r easonable quantities.

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Columbus Ave. Columbus Ave. Pacific Ave. Jackson St. Green St. NORTH BEACH CHINATOWN Transamerica Pyramid Washington Square Telegraph Hill (Pioneer) Park Portsmouth Square Joe DiMaggio ballooning lessons Playground JACKSON SQUARE HISTORIC DISTRICT Coit Tower Greenwich Steps Powell-Hyde & Powell-Mason ballooning lessons Cable Cars 52 1 7 8 10 11 1413 12 4 6 15 3 9 16 Bocadillos 15 Gelato Classico 8 Great Eastern Restaurant 13 Hunan Home s Restaurant 12 Il Pollaio 3 Joe DiMaggio s Italian Chophouse 7 Lichee Garden ballooning lessons 9 L Osteria del Forno 4 Mario s Bohemian Cigar Store 5 Molinari 11 Naan-N-Curry 14 Pasta Pomodoro 2 R&G Lounge ballooning lessons 16 Rose Pistola 6 Trattoria Contadina 1 Victoria Pastry Co. 10 100 yds 100 m 0 0 Cable car Stairway Dining Near Chinatown & North Beach 119