IT ALIAN This r enowned Tuscan-Italian r estaurant defines what s incredible about the city s neighborhood eats. Every day chef/co-owner Craig Stoll, one of Food & Wine s Best New Chefs a few years back, whips up a new menu of delectable, ultra-fresh fare. Diners trek in from all over the city for it, even though there s absolutely nowhere to park. (Take a cab.) The Niman Ranch flat-iron steak with french fries is a standard, but a more seasonal option might be winter gnocchi with squash and chestnuts or lamb with polenta and sw eet peas. Don t fail to order the buttermilk panna cotta for dessert. The yellow walls, close-together tables, and hip young clientele give this place an adult energy, so I suggest it for a night when y ou have a babysitter. An added plus is its proximity to many hopping Mission bars: If you do have a sitter, you can enjoy an hour or two out on the town after dinner.
Frjtz BEL GIAN FRIES/CREP ES Among the hip boutiques and antique shops of Hayes Valley is this funky teahouse specializing in fries. Thick and crispy, and wrapped in a paper cone just like y ou get on the streets of Brussels, the starchy wedges are best eaten when they re as hot as y our fingers can handle. The inv entive dipping sauces include kalamata-caper ketchup, miso mayo, and spic-yogurt peanut. If you feel guilty just feeding your kids fries for lunch, y ou can order them salads, sandwiches, or cr epes, all of which are named after artists. Another location is in the Mission.
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